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the Aspiring Steward

Yellowstone – Cliffs & Rapids

Posted on October 10, 2018July 15, 2019

Travel to several of the most popular destinations in the park, like Mammoth Hot Springs and Norris Geyser Valley. The day really sparkles, though, when we unearth a few less-traveled destinations along the cliffs and rapids.

Bison Roundup in the Hayden Valley

I really enjoyed seeing the bison in Yellowstone.  They appear everywhere in the park with their burly coats, huge shoulders, and deep brown eyes, just staring you down.  The bison own the stage and walk wherever they want – along the road, through the valleys, in the middle of streams and even lay next to geysers and hot springs.  You start to get used to them being everywhere and you pay less attention until they put themselves right in front of you.  In this case, the bison were all around us (click link for pictures) as we headed out of the park via the Hayden Valley.  Getting stuck in a bison-jam was a fun way to say goodbye to the beautiful, expansive valleys of Yellowstone.

Norris Geyser Basin

We arrived at the Norris Geyser Basin while the morning chill was still in the air. The cool air created an ethereal air as we hiked through the valley, which was filled with all different kinds of cauldrons, geysers, hot springs, etc. venting through the crust. If you are lucky, you may see one of the tallest geysers, Steamboat Geyser, erupt. Although it was not active during our visit, there was still plenty to see around the 2+ mile boardwalk through the basin.

Of course, several weeks after our visit, I read about several geysers that recently had decided to start erupting again, one of them was the Steamboat Geyser. Seize the opportunity to research what geysers may be active and when they are scheduled to erupt. Certain geyser activity may be more likely in the morning or the afternoon. If that is of particular interest to you, plan your visit times accordingly.

Sheepeater Cliffs

From Norris Geyser, we traveled north toward Mammoth Hot Springs. Along the way, we stopped at Sheepeater Cliffs. The area was named for an Indian community that resided along the cliffs. I read it was a nice hike, but it turned out to be much more. I would rate it the best value hike in Yellowstone!

When you pull into the parking lot, you are immediately greeted by those oddly named cliffs. The cliffs formed from volcanic rock that erupted thousands of years ago. This part is cool and unique, but much more lies beyond the volcanic rock.  

Sheepeater Cliffs in Yellowstone

From the cliffs, take a short, 1/2 mile hike between the river below and the cliffs high above to arrive at a high, rocky overlook. From this vantage point, you are able to survey the Gardner River coming over a waterfall all the way through a valley to where it spills out below. The spillway is a grand valley 50 feet below your feet.   The hike was the best sightseeing value in the park, based on distance and time.  You can explore as much or as little as you would like. For example, you could easily see all of the sights in under an hour. For the more adventurous, you could explore the area for an entire afternoon. All levels of hiker are capable of making the hike.

Mammoth Hot Springs, Boiling River

Mammoth Hot Springs was ok.  We drove through the hot springs and stopped briefly, but we honestly felt at that time that we had seen enough hot liquids spewing out of the Earth.  We were ready for something different. So, we enjoyed a nice, reasonable lunch at the Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel and then headed over to the Boiling River.  

The Boiling River is something unique that you have to experience. The attraction is situated between the Gardner Gate and Mammoth Hot Springs. There is a very small parking lot that fills quickly during the busy season. Once you park your car, you walk along a gravel path to the junction of a hot stream merging with a cold river. The cold water is from the Gardner River. If you took the recommended hike to Sheepeater Cliffs, your overlook featured rapids on the Gardner River. This cold water mixes with the boiling water from Lava Creek.  The mixture creates a fun bathing area of warm water (pictured below).  All you need is a swim suit and patience to find just the right spot.  You may find yourself too hot or too cold, depending on where you seat yourself. In that case, move a bit and find a more suitable temperature. I recommend a pair of water shoes to navigate the slippery rocks. This area is a blast.

Livingston, Montana

After the Boiling River, we went through the Roosevelt Arch at the North Entrance and drove straight north along the Yellowstone River for an hour to get to Livingston.  I had read an article that put Livingston on a list of Top 10 Small Towns in America.  I can see why.  Back in the day, it was the train stop for people coming to Yellowstone on the Northern Pacific Railway.  The town is filled with historical sights and lots of unique shops and eateries throughout the town. 

We did not have reservations when we pulled into town, and so we stopped at the Murray Hotel.  I was met by Sara at the front desk who informed me they had one room available and it was discounted because it was right over the bar and across the street from the train station.  We lamented a bit but decided to give it a go and we were very glad we did.  The hotel is part of the historic district and is right in the middle of everything. We had drinks and dinner at the 2nd Street Bistro (our server, Stephania was delightful) and finished off the day with a stroll around town.

Lobby of the Murray Hotel
Murray Hotel in Livingston, MT

We found two awesome places to visit on this part of our trip. The hike to Sheepeater Cliffs is engaging, beautiful, and fun. It does not take hours to complete and the area is relatively free from crowds. The second destination, the Boiling River, is unlike any bathing I have done before. It’s unstructured fun playing around in water. As long as you stay out of Lava Creek, you will have a great time.

Join me as we continue to travel through the beautiful towns and scenery of Montana. We spend several days in museums and along the streams and lakes before we visit Glacier National Park.

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